+



                                                                                                                                              



















    Non-Wovens
    The fibers in a non-woven fabric are pressed or matted together. Its raw edges don’t
    ravel. Felt is an example of a non-woven fabric.

    Knits
    If you look closely at a knit fabric, you’ll see that it’s made up of little loops of thread that
    interlock with one another. You can stretch a knit in all directions and it will return to its
    original shape. A knit usually has more stretch in one direction than another.





















Fabric recommendations
                                                                                   

    For your first project, I suggest using a mid-weight woven or non-woven fabric. Broadcloth and
    shirting are good choices. If the fabrics aren’t clearly labeled at the store, ask the sales staff.

    I also recommend a fabric that’s either a solid color or a random pattern.

    You may even want to sew your first project with some really cheap, on sale, dollar-a yard-
    fabric. Therefore, if you make some mistakes, it won't be a big deal.


    For now, stay away from the following:

  • Stripes, plaids, and one-way designs (a print that has a “right side up” to it). The pattern
    pieces for stripes and plaids need to be laid out so the lines will “match” at the seams.
    And one-way prints need to have their pattern pieces laid out in one direction.

    Note: When you do decide to work with stripes, plaids, or one-way designs, extra fabric
    may be needed for matching the design – more than what’s indicated on the pattern
    envelope.

  • Heavyweight fabrics, thin, delicate, or lightweight fabrics, or slippery fabrics like satin.
    These fabrics can be difficult to work with and require special handling.

  • Knit fabrics. Knits can also be a bit tricky to work with and need to be sewn with a special
    stretch stitch that allows the fabric to remain stretchy along the seam lines.

  • Napped (fuzzy) fabrics like velvet or corduroy. Napped fabrics also need their pattern
    pieces laid out in the same direction so that the “nap” runs the same way on the finished
    garment. They can also be a bit tricky to sew and press.


    The back of your pattern envelope will likely have a list of fabric suggestions the designer
    thinks are good choices for the item. If you deviate from these fabrics, you may end up
    frustrated as you try to sew your garment and disappointed with the result. For instance, a
    heavy, wool fabric may be too bulky for a blouse design or a lightweight silk may be
    inappropriate for a blazer pattern.

    And your pattern may recommend against using certain fabrics. So you may read something like,
    “not suitable for napped fabrics” or “not suitable for diagonals or plaids.”




















The end of the fabric bolt
                                                                                   

    You’ll likely see most of the fabric in the store displayed on bolts (the flat, cardboard things the
    fabric is wrapped around). But sometimes fabric will be rolled around cardboard tubes or
    displayed on hangers.

    The end (top) of the bolt is usually printed with the following information:

  • The type of fabric
  • The fabric’s fiber content (100% cotton, 100% polyester, etc.)
  • The width of the fabric (usually 45”-60” wide)
  • The fabric’s price per yard
  • The fabric’s care instructions (write these instructions down for future reference)


Determine how much fabric to get
                                                                                   

    Once you’ve chosen your fabric, it’s time to figure out how much of it to get.

    The amount of fabric you need is determined by three things:

  • The size of the item you’re making (if you’re making a garment)
  • The version or view of the item you’re making
  • How wide your fabric is

    If you’re making a home décor item, the pattern instructions should tell you how to take
    measurements for your item. This is what your yardage will be determined by.

    For a garment, look at the chart on the back of the envelope. Find your size, then your view,
    then your fabric width. Circle this yardage number (in pencil so you can erase it later for a
    different view).

    If your fabric width is a couple of inches off, say 58” wide instead of 60”, you can usually get
    away with purchasing the amount of fabric for the 60” width. However, if your fabric is
    particularly expensive, you may want to do a trial layout of your pattern first to make sure all of
    your pieces will fit into the slightly narrower fabric width. To do this, gather all your pattern
    pieces (see Lay Out Your Fabric), lay them out according to the appropriate diagram in the
    guide sheet, and measure the layout you’ve made from top to bottom (remembering that you’ll
    be folding your fabric lengthwise) to make sure all of the pieces will fit into the narrower fabric
    width.

    It’s a good idea to get a little more fabric than the pattern recommends if there’s a chance your
    fabric may shrink. Get an extra 1/8 yard or so for every one yard of fabric. So if your pattern
    calls for two yards of fabric, get about 2 ¼ yards. Keep in mind that this is just a rough
    guideline and that different fabrics shrink at different rates. (For more on preshrinking fabric,
    see How to Preshrink Fabric.)













Choose an interfacing, if necessary
                                                                                   

    Interfacing is a kind of fabric that’s placed into parts of garment to provide shape, support,
    stiffness, reinforcement, or stability. It’s often used in collars, cuffs, waistbands, lapels, facings,
    necklines, pockets, and the front bands of shirts. (For more information on choosing interfacing,
    see Interfacing Basics).

    The back of your pattern should indicate whether interfacing is required and how much of it you
    need. Sometimes it will suggest a certain type of interfacing.


Choose a lining, if necessary
                                                                                   

    A lining is sewn into an item for one or more of the following reasons:

  • To give support and body to an item
  • To give an item shape
  • To provide a layer of warmth to a garment
  • To give opaqueness to sheer fabrics
  • To reinforce seams
  • To hide inner construction
  • To decrease wear and tear on a garment
  • To make a garment easy to slide off and on

    Linings are usually lighter in weight than the outer fabric.

    If lining is required for your project, it should be indicated on the back of the pattern envelope
    and state how much of it you need.

    Make sure the care requirements for your lining are compatible with those of your
    garment fabric. For instance, don’t purchase an outer fabric that’s machine washable and a
    lining fabric that must be dry-cleaned.

    If your lining fabric is a different color than your outer fabric and you plan to
    launder your finished item, test both fabrics for colorfastness (See instructions for testing for
    colorfastness under Prepare Your Fabric.)


Purchase your fabric
                                                                                   

    Take your fabric selection(s) to the counter, tell the sales clerk to the nearest 1/8 of a yard how
    much of it you’d like and she’ll cut it for you.
Sewing Information, Advice, How-to
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Learn to Sew Lesson #3:
Choose Your Fabric
Okay, so you’ve chosen a pattern you love. Now
it’s time to choose a fabric for it.


The basic fabric types
                                                                           

    There are three basic types of fabrics:

    Wovens
    If you look closely at a woven fabric,
    you’ll see threads in the fabric that
    run horizontally and vertically. Woven
    fabrics don’t stretch when pulled
    lengthwise or crosswise, but do
    stretch some when pulled on the bias
    (diagonally).
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