+



                                                                                                                                             

















    the finished item will run in the same direction. Use the with nap layout if your fabric has a nap
    to it or is a one-way design (a print with a “right side up” to it) Use the without nap layout for all
    other fabrics.

    Once you find your layout, circle it. With so many layouts printed on the page it can be easy to
    get confused. And circle the diagram in pencil so you can erase it if you decide to make a
    different version later.

    Note that you don’t have to follow the layout shown in your guide sheet. But it’s likely to be the
    layout that uses the least amount of fabric.



















Straighten your fabric’s grain, if necessary
                                                                                   

    Sometimes woven fabrics, especially lower quality fabrics, are off-grain. This means their
    lengthwise and crosswise threads aren’t running perpendicular to each other the way they
    should.

    Fabric pieces that are cut off-grain can lead to a finished item that doesn’t hang quite right on
    the body. Therefore, before cutting your pattern pieces from your fabric, it’s important to make
    sure the grain of your fabric is straight, and if it’s not, to straighten it.



Fold your fabric
                                                                                   

    Lay your fabric onto your cutting surface. If there is excess that doesn’t fit onto your cutting
    surface, don’t let it hang off the side of your table. This could stretch the fabric. Instead, fold
    the excess and leave it at the end of your table.

    Many fabric layouts require you to fold your fabric in half lengthwise to double it, matching the
    fabric’s selvedges (the factory finished top and bottom edge of a length of fabric). Fabric is
    doubled like this because usually two of each fabric piece are needed.

    However you may see other types of layouts in your guide sheet:

  • Sometimes a layout will require you to fold about one third of your fabric up lengthwise,
    leaving the top part of the fabric a single layer. For this layout, use your ruler or yardstick
    to measure from one selvage to the other all along the length of the fabric, making sure
    the distance is the same so that your fabric is folded straight.

  • Sometimes a layout will call for folding your fabric lengthwise from both the top and
    bottom so that the selvedges meet in the middle. This kind of layout can be useful when
    there’s a permanent crease in the middle of your fabric from being folded on the bolt.

  • Sometimes a layout will call for cutting your length of fabric into two pieces, doubling one
    piece and leaving the other piece a single layer. With this type of layout, I suggest laying
    out the folded section first, then cutting off the end of your fabric for the other pieces.


    When folding your fabric, you can either fold it right sides together or wrong sides together.
    Folding your fabric with the right sides together can make it faster to prepare your pieces for
    stitching because often you’ll be required to stitch fabric pieces with the right sides together.
    Folding your fabric wrong sides together can be useful when you’re working with a print and
    you need to see the print to position your pattern pieces onto the fabric a certain way.

    After you’ve placed your fabric onto your cutting surface and folded it, smooth out any wrinkles.



















Lay your pattern pieces onto your fabric
                                                                                   

    Following the diagram in your guide sheet, place all of your pattern pieces onto your fabric first
    before pinning them down because some pieces may need to be adjusted or shifted.

    Your layout may indicate placing the edges of some pattern pieces directly on the fold line of
    your fabric. This is to make it easier to cut out the right and left sides of a much larger piece at
    once. To lay your fabric piece on the fold line, lay the solid edge of the pattern piece right
    against the fold of your fabric. When you cut out this pattern piece out, don’t cut along this
    folded edge.


Pin your pattern pieces to your fabric
                                                                                   

    After you’ve laid all of your pattern pieces onto your fabric, pin them in place. As you’re pinning,
    work left to right, bottom to top. And as you pin, smooth the tissue paper as flat as you can.

    Pin your pattern pieces on grain (straight):

    Any pattern pieces you’ve placed on the fold line of your fabric will automatically be on grain. All
    the other pieces need to be measured as they’re placed to make sure they’re straight.

    All of your non-fold line pattern pieces should be marked with a horizontal arrow. You want this
    arrow to be exactly parallel to the fold line of your fabric. Pin your pattern piece in place at the
    left end of the arrow. Then measure from this side of the arrow to the fabric fold with your
    yardstick. Then measure from the right side of the arrow to the fabric fold. Shift the right side of
    your pattern piece up or down until the measurement matches the left side. Pin the pattern
    piece in place at the right end of the arrow. Pin the rest of your pattern in place. Repeat for all
    of your other pattern pieces.

    As you pin, place your pattern pieces as close together as possible. This is to ensure that you
    use the least amount of fabric.

    As you place your pins into your pattern pieces and fabric, keep your fabric as flat as possible
    on your cutting surface. In other words, as tempting as it may be, don’t raise your fabric and
    put your hand underneath to pin.

    Where to place your pins:

    Place your pins into your pattern and fabric close to and parallel to the edges of your pattern
    pieces. If you were to place your pins perpendicular to the edges, you’d run a greater risk of
    accidentally cutting into a pin.

    Place pins about 3” apart along straighter edges and closer together around curves. Place a pin
    into each corner of your pattern pieces. Smooth the pattern pieces as you pin them down.












Cut out your pattern pieces
                                                                                   

    Now that your pattern pieces are pinned in place, carefully cut along the outer lines of each
    piece. Use longer scissor strokes on straight areas and shorter strokes around curves. If you’re
    making a garment from a multi-size pattern, just remember to cut along the line for your size.
    Be careful not to accidentally hit a pin when you cut, this could damage your scissors. And
    again, as tempting as it may be, don’t lift your fabric up with your hand as you cut – leave it as
    flat as you can on your cutting surface.

    When you come to a notch (the little triangular or diamond-shaped symbols along the edges of
    the pattern pieces), mark their place by making a triangular notch outward or by clipping into
    the edge of the fabric 1/4”.


Cut out lining and interfacing
                                                                                   

    Repeat these steps for your lining and interfacing. You may need to use several of the same
    pattern pieces you used for your fabric.

    When you’re eager to start sewing your project, I know it can be tempting to put this off until
    later. But it can be annoying when you’re on a roll with your sewing to have to stop to cut
    something else out. So I recommend doing it now, while your cutting surface is set up.
Sewing Information, Advice, How-to
Privacy Policy         Legal           About           Contact           Site Map
Learn to Sew Lesson #7:
Lay Out Your Fabric
Find your layout
                                                                           

    Your guide sheet should provide you with a
    diagram for positioning your pattern pieces
    onto your fabric. So find the layout in your
    guide sheet that corresponds to:

  • The particular “view” you’re making
  • The size you’re making
  • The width of your fabric

    You may also be given a choice of a with nap
    or without nap layout. A with nap layout will
    have all the pattern pieces laid out in the
    same direction so that the nap (fuzziness) in
Get FREE Sewing Patterns! Click here.
Sewing How-To:
General Sources:
Buying Sources:
*********************************************************************************
*********************************************************************************
*********************************************************************************
(Continued Below)
*********************************************************************************
*********************************************************************************
*********************************************************************************
(Continued Below)
*********************************************************************************
*********************************************************************************
*********************************************************************************
*********************************************************************************
Fun Sewing Project Books!